Gelato!

After I finished my ride on the Singapore Flyer, I wandered around the shops and restaurants around the base.  I walked in a circle to read all of the signs telling the story of the race across the river that decided the twelve animals of the Chinese zodiac-turns out mine,the rat, was the first, which I never knew. 

As I came back around to the side near the bay, I caught sight of a colorful stand called Gelatissimo.  The signs promised real Italian gelato, but I was sceptical.  I've heard that before, and utilities never is. The "gelato" at the mall in Wuhan is tasteless and grainy.  But I walked over anyhow, and the ice cream really was mounded up, with bits of fruit stuck on top, just like the real thing. It was a bit expensive, but I decided to take a chance and splurge. 

Heaven.  It really was...the best gelato I've tasted since leaving Italy.  I got my usual favorite combination of chocolate and strawberry, and it was perfect. I sat and ate it as slowly as I could on a warm evening; the perfect ending to a pleasant day of sightseeing. 

Singapore Flyer

It seems that Singapore is a city that comes to life after dark. There are concerts in the amphitheaters on the promenade alongside the bay, a light show near the flower-like museum alongside Marina Bay, a light show at the Gardens by the Bay park, and of course the Singapore Flyer.  And that's all just around the bay; there is also a night safari out near the zoo, and I'm sure plenty of other things.  

For my first evening, I decided to view the lights of the city from above, on the Singapore Flyer.  The Singapore Flyer is a giant ferris wheel, currently the tallest one in the world at 541 feet, at least until the new High Roller wheel opens in Las Vegas next month.  It takes about half an hour to go all the way around in one of the 28 capsules.  While it runs all day, too, I wanted the night view, so I went up a little after nine in the evening.  It was very similar to the London Eye, which I went up in years ago, and did give a great view, although I do wish they would clean the windows a bit better, or at least that people would have the sense not to touch the glass, as some smudges in places made it hard to get clear pictures.  Anyhow, here are some pictures of the view from up there.  

The Merlion of Singapore

After leaving Hard Rock, I figured I'd better hurry up and get back to sight-seeing.  Have to fit in as much as possible in my two days!  So, I navigated back through the underground shopping mall (there seems to be as much shopping under Orchard Road and on it) to the subway and headed downtown.  I got out at Raffles Place, and again found myself in an underground shopping mall.  Goodness, if you like to shop, there are layers of it in Singapore.  I came up to air in the midst of towering skyscrapers with signs for corporations and bank headquarters, and the occasional ritzy hotel.  I was a bit disoriented at first but soon found a street sign that I could match on my map, and struck out for Merlion Park.  

Merlion Park is right on the edge of Marina Bay.  It's a rather nonsensical statue, with the head of a lion and the tail of a fish, hence the rather obvious and unimaginative name of Merlion.  Odd as it is, it's become popular as a symbol of the city, and it seems half the postcards from Singapore feature it. Apparently there are five around Singapore; two here in the bayside park. It's become a mascot for Singapore as, according to wikipedia, the fish tail represents the city's humble beginnings as the island home of a tribe of fishermen, and the lion as the Malay word Singapura from which Singapore is derived means "Lion City."  It's such a tourist fixture that they've built a viewing platform out over the water so everyone can get the obligatory photo of themselves in front of it (here's mine--oh, and there's my new Boston Terrier bag; isn't it cute?  Although actually not the wisest choice ever--pleather is rather hot to carry when it's humid, and it's just a bit too small and unstuffable, but I'll manage).  

Hard Rock Singapore

As I seem to write every time I go to another Hard Rock, it does seem to be a contradiction of the usual backpacker indie-traveler creed, going to such a commercialized and western restaurant.  I ought to be eating local street food for the cultural experience and all.  And I do that, too, but Hard Rock is my guilty pleasure. I justify it since I live in Asia, I deserve a western break now and then, and they really do have the best onion rings and often the only really southern bbq pulled pork available.  Actually, the picture doesn't look all that great, but it tasted good. 

Anyhow, by now it's a tradition, anyhow.  I found the Singapore Hard Rock off the end of Orchard Road, the famous shopping street.  It was a bit noisy at first as some corporate group was having a luncheon meeting complete with silly contests to see which group could dress up one of their male members in a wig, skirt, and high heels the best.  Thankfully they finished up not long after I got my food, and the music came on.  

Orchard Road

After my wanderings through Little India, I hopped a subway to Orchard Road.  Orchard Road is the most famous shopping street in Singapore; the whole way is lined with malls and upscale markets and ritzy restaurants.  I stepped off of the subway platform into a vast underground shopping mall; as I followed the signs through the maze of shops trying to find daylight, I passed something beautiful: a Krispy Kreme.  Now, we have our Daylight Donuts in Wuhan, which is okay, but not as good as Dunkin' Donuts; Dunkin' Donuts can be found in major cities in Asia (but not Wuhan...), but Krispy Kreme...by far the best donuts in the world, far above Dunkin' Donuts and in another category completely from dear old Daylight.  The only other one I've seen in Asia was in the Bangkok airport.  Of course I had to get a couple; the opportunity was too good to pass up, even though I didn't want to ruin my dinner.  

Near the Krispy Kreme I finally found an escalator going up, and came out into this gilded courtyard, surrounded by Armani and Versacci and all the rest.  I sat on a little ledge and feasted on my donuts, looking around at the opulence.  Consulting my map, I took a detour off a side street from Orchard Road to find a shopping mall known to be cheap and frequented by locals that my hostel receptionist had marked out for me.  I was in desperate need of a new bag, as my beloved back that survived India and Yunnan and all was nearing its end...I had already had to sew the strap back on, the zipper had come off completely twice, and the fabric in the back was worn so thin that a hole was starting.  

I spent a pleasant couple of hours shopping and not buying much.  They have such adorable little sundresses here, in such fun fabrics...too bad that, like in all of Asia, they are all a size 2 (or smaller).  And they had such cheap shoes...but of course, women's only up to size 40, and I wear a 42.  Sigh.  Such is life for an American in Asia...this is why I've bought so much jewelry and hair accessories over the last couple of years; it's the only thing that fits.  I finally bought a bag; I'd seen a similar one in China some time before and thought it cute--the front of the black pleather bag is overlaid with white so that it makes the face of a Boston Terrier.  Just like Jack, the little dog my grandparents used to have. 

After completely exploring every corner of the five-story mall, I headed back down Orchard Road.  The other bonus to coming to this part of Singapore:  Hard Rock.  

Little India

I only had two full days in Singapore, which turned out to be not nearly enough (although as it's quite expensive, probably plenty for this trip).  It seems everyone either loves or hates Singapore--some think it's too commercial, too westernized, too modern.  And too hot and humid, usually.  But I loved it.  I guess the usual complaint is that they didn't travel all the way to Asia to eat at a Krispy Kreme or shop at a Gucci store, but as I live in Asia all the time, it was a nice vacation for me to find some foods and stores that I don't see in China.  

I especially liked the cultural diversity--There's the ethnically Chinese majority, but also Little India, the Muslim neighborhood, and plenty of expats from elsewhere, too.  You can walk a few blocks and be in a different culture, and yet nearly everyone speaks English. 

As I was having breakfast at the hostel (toast, nutella or some off brand of it, and fruit) the receptionist (the non-annoying one) asked me about my plans.  As I only had a couple of days, she pointed out her opinion of the must-see sights on the map, and the route I might take.  I started out following her advice, although it wasn't long before I got off track and went my own way. 

The hostel was on the northern border of the Little India area, so I started out first to walk through that neighborhood.  The streets at first seemed like any others, but after a couple of blocks I started to see a profusion of Indian restaurants, beauty salons, and convenience stores selling brands of mango juice that I enjoyed in Rajasthan.  Many jewelry shops sold the ornate and flashy jewelry that would seem gaudy on me but goes so perfectly with a sari.  I wandered into one Hindu temple along the way, full of locals offering dishes of rice to various idols of the gods.  I enjoyed the neighborhood as it took me back a year to last winter's trip through India. Even the smells took me back--that mixture of incense and curry and dust, although minus the cow. I even bought a mango drink to taste a little bit of India, and was almost tempted to have Indian food for lunch, if I hadn't already set my heart on making it to Hard Rock.  

Singapore Subway

I love subways, as I think I've mentioned before in my blog.  I wish more cities had them.  Somewhere or other long ago I had a list of all the subway systems I've ever been on; I haven't seen it in some time, but next time I find it I'll have a new one to add.  

The Singapore subway is especially useful as it actually goes to the airport.  This incredibly helpful feature really ought to be available everywhere, but alas.  Supposedly in Wuhan someday...someday...there will be a line to the airport, but they don't seem as much in a hurry to finish that section as I think they ought to be.  Probably all the taxi drivers who make a killing going out there lobby for its delay.  Anyhow, the Singapore subway is pretty normal as far as subways go, but as is befitting Singapore, quite clean, modern, and organized.  I did get a kick out of the signs I saw posted in the station by the airport.  There was the usual "no smoking" sign, the usual "no food or drink" sign, and,  unusually, a "no durian" sign.  Durian, if you aren't familiar with it, is a tropical fruit that grows well and is quite popular in this part of the world.  They are a bit bigger than a cantaloupe, and covered with a thick yellow rind of spikes.  Supposedly they are extremely nutritious.  The problem is their strong smell...unlike most fruit, the smell lingers and lingers; it's hard to get it out of the air.  And it's generally considered unpleasant--to me, it just smells like a large amount of very overripe and beginning to rot pile of melon and mango, but many say the smell is like strong onions and garlic.  However you smell it, it's the sort of fruit that should be eaten outdoors and not kept in small spaces, and I think the sign-makers were quite wise to stipulate that it should not be eaten on the subway.  

Flight to Singapore

For a couple of days before the flight I was dreading getting up at a ridiculously early hour, but the night before I finally rechecked the schedule and was happy to see that the flight was not at eleven as I had been thinking, but at one (it was the flight leaving Singapore that was at eleven), meaning I could sleep to more normal hour.  Always a blessing for this night owl.  

Anyhow, I still got up rather early for me, and checked out of the hostel by eight.  As instructed by the receptionist, I took a taxi to the West Inn, and from there the airport shuttle bus.  As it turns out, I could have gotten away with sleeping just a bit longer, but you just never know when relying on public transportation, so, better safe than sorry and all that.  Everything went like clockwork, though, and I easily made it to the airport before ten.  I had plenty of time to make two laps around the departure area and a ramble through the upstairs food section, and then I wandered off down to the arrival area, and then found a Starbucks on a quiet in-between area overlooking arrivals, and passed some more time with a chocolate muffin.  

There's really not much to write about when nothing goes wrong; my first flight to Kuala Lumpur was ordinary; during my layover there, I had a mid-afternoon lunch/dinner at Burger King, which I guess was unusual in that it was really good--or else I've been in China too long and anything labeled cheese sticks or onion rings tastes good to me.  My second flight on to Singapore was similarly uneventful, and I arrived just as scheduled, took the subway, and followed the hostel's excellent walking directions from there--although I do beg to differ on the meaning of "really close to the subway", as it was a good twenty-minute walk at a good pace.